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The biggest challenge embroidering lycra type fabric is stabilising it effectively enough to insert the stitches; there is then the question of what it looks like when the garment is in it's relaxed state when not being worn and what it looks like when it is stretched during wear: here are some guidelines:
Digitising for Lycra: the main feature of embroidering lycra is the 'stretchy' nature of the fabric - an embroidery which looks good when the garment is relaxed begins to look poor when the garment is worn because puckering and distortions radiate from the design as the garment is stretched. Conversely a logo which looks good when worn tends to look too bulky and distorted when the garment is loose.
The optimum is to aim for just over 'halfway' when hooping the fabric so that the logo does not have that much further to stretch when the lycra is worn but is acceptable looking when relaxed. Try to digitise the design with as few stitches as possible to reduce the thread bulk in it's relaxed state - this is a general rule to follow when embroidering thin or fine fabrics to reduce 'structural jamming', increase comfort and reduce damage.
Stabilisation during embroidery: the most effective backing material for lycra fabric is a material called 'Hydrostick' - it is a water-activated backing paper which becomes sticky (but not 'gummy') in order to stabilise the fabric firmly during embroidery and is easily removed afterwards by applying small quantities of water; generally speaking - if the quality of digitising is good - then little or no distortion takes place. A layer of cutaway backing can also be used underneath to provide bulk because of the extra fineness of the fabric. Do not use tearaway backing because the damage it does during removal. More information on 'Hydrostick' can be found at:
http://www.terradonunlimited.com/hydrostick.htm
Positioning the fabric: it is helpful to mark the fabric to be embroidered with a straight line to ensure that while you stretch the fabric into position on the frame you keep the tension even enough to keep the line straight - so that when the fabric shrinks after embroidery the logo is stitched evenly around the embroidered area.
Choice of needle: remember to use a ball-point needle to prevent the cutting of the knitted yarns - this applies also to the embroidering of all knitted fabrics. Quality and clarity is also improved by using as small a needle as your thread will allow; this decision is arrived at through experimentation.
Please note that Lycra is a product and trademark of Dupont Inc., USA
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